Spa Startup with a Saltwater Hot Tub Generator – Chlorine Production
Thank you for purchasing a saltwater chlorine generator. By following the manufacturer’s instructions, you can make the switch in a few simple steps.
In the event your chlorine generator is displaying a 0 chlorine reading, do not panic. For the most part, this is caused by fresh water and the newly added salt containing high levels of organic materials and phosphates. Demand on the generator may be outweighing the ability to produce chlorine faster than the spa is consuming it.
We suggest shocking your spa water and using a phosphate remover. In the event your generator is not going to be used for several days, you may opt for a chlorine based shock. In the event you wish you use your generator, a chlorine-free shock should be used.
Scale Removal from a Saltwater Chlorine Generator
Your ControlOMatic saltwater chlorine generator is equipped with a self-cleaning mode. While the self-cleaning mode does an excellent job at keeping the titanium plates clean, you may notice stubborn scale developing. If you should notice white scale (salt-like in appearance), a deep cleaning is recommended to avoid damaging the plates.
- Turn off the saltwater chlorine generator.
- Fill a large plastic cup with warm water. Add white vinegar or half a capful of pH down.
- Please the cell in the plastic cup and allow it to soak in the solution for at least 30 minutes.
- Remove the cell from the solution and rinse.
Operating Water Temperature
ControlOMatic saltwater chlorine generators should only be used in warm to hot water. If your hot tub or spa water is below 60F (15.5C), please remove the unit. By operating a ControlOMatic chlorinator in cold water temperatures, you run the risk of permanently damaging the titanium plates.
Salt Level – Colour Indicator Information
The TechniChlor, SmarterChlor, ChlorMaker and MegaChlor all include a colour-guided salt level indicator system. When these systems are producing chlorine, the LED light colour will indicate the salt level.
GREEN: Salt level may be high
RED: Salt level may be low
BLUE: Salt level is okay
Never add salt to your spa or hot tub without measuring. Salt has a long life and the level indicated on the LED display may not match that of a manual test. This is due to the fact the built-in salt indicator is measuring data from between the titanium plates. The water temperature, mineral content and current levels can all affect the salt level.
Low Chlorine Production with Green or Blue LED Indicators Displayed
ControlOMatic chlorinators last an average of 7000 to 10,000 hours. As the product ages and reaches the 7000-hour mark, you may notice chlorine production diminishes.
Should your chlorinator not be close to the expected life span, the following suggestions may help improve chlorine production:
- Drain and refill if water is 8 months or older
- Shock the hot tub or spa water with a chlorine-free shock.
- To aid in removal of organic material build-up, consider using a phosphate remover
- If you operate an ozone generator, ensure is it working properly
Red & Green LED Lights at the Same Time
ControlOMatic saltwater chlorine systems are designed with a current shutdown safety feature. This shutdown is intended to protect the power supply and titanium plates, thereby ensuring at least 7000 hours of operation. In the event your LED display starts showing the GREEN and RED lights at the same time, you should immediately test your water.
- Turn off the chlorinator
- Fill a 5 gallon bucket with 2/3 hot tub water and 1/3 fresh water
- Place chlorinator in the bucket, leave turned off, and allow to adjust to water temperature for 5 to 10 minutes.
- Turn chlorinator ON
- If LED lights are blue when making chlorine, remove 1/3 of the hot tub water and replace with fresh water.
If after performing this water test the LED’s remain RED and GREEN, there may be a short in your saltwater system. Please contact us to discuss further.